Bonn Om Touk

While the beach was beautiful, Christine and I were determined to return to Phnom Penh for the three-day Water Festival (Bonn Om Touk), for which over two million people flood the city each year. We could already sense a change in the capital as our bus slowly made its way back into the city Sunday night, as traffic had picked up considerably. I got the biggest kick out of seeing Tuks-tuks pass by with families of ten or more inside (which would usually only seat four people).

I had been excited for the water festival ever since I arrived in Cambodia. The festival ushers in the fishing season and marks both the end of the rainy season as well as the reversal of the Tonle Sap River’s current. Thousands of people (from all walks of life) flood the city to watch jubilant boat races, fireworks and a flotilla of lighted ships under the full moon.

The riverside was transformed for the festival. Crowds and crowds of people, vendors and police lined the streets and banks…bright colors, shouts, and pounding music flooded the senses. I enjoyed moving exploring the different booths, and vendors, but the Tourist Pavilion (an area roped off and guarded for tourists) turned out to be a welcome haven from the masses. As the day progressed and the crowds grew, it was a relief to duck into the Pavilion (which also guaranteed a great view of the races). At first, Christine and I had hesitated about entering, until the guards OK’ed Vuthong’s (a Cambodian friend) entrance as well. While I understood that the pavilion was there to promote tourism and development in the country (which certainly worked in my case), it still felt strange to be roped off from the majority of the Cambodians (who the festival really belongs too).

I had only made plans to attend the first day of the festival, but ended up returning the following two days. I couldn’t tire of the beautifully colored boats, the cheerful shouts of “Hello, Hello!”, or the high energy running through the participants. I was drawn back each day to become a part of the masses joyfully celebrating life.
One of my favorite parts of the Festival was the procession of Illuminated Floats, which celebrates the full moon and is believed to bring great merit and prosperity to the country. The procession begins when the King lights the first float. Amazingly, the Tourist Pavilion was right next to the Royal Pavilion. So, guess what? I saw the King of Cambodia!!! Granted, it was at a distance, but still! Even better than seeing the King Sihamoni myself, was watching Vuthong’s reaction when she saw Him. While I was excited, she was absolutely thrilled (jumping up and down, clapping her hands and squealing). Her delight was absolutely catching : )